I have not seen this question and am hoping that someone might be able to provide an answer.
A client wants me to laser a sign made of wood (California redwood). He has had signs in the past made using a router and has not been pleased. However he does like the "deep" grooves that the routers make.
In the past I have made deep laser cuts using a series of passes. Unfortunately in some cases the surrounding surface wood was scorched.
Am I better off reducing the number of passes by increasing the power and reducing the speed, or am I better off using the normal settings and making more passes? Also, will masking the top of the wood help or hinder the process?
deep cutting wood
Moderator: baker
Re: deep cutting wood
laser cutter no good to deep cutting wood.But in my opinion,you can try to use high pressure air compressor: provides the compressed air with greater pressure than the air pump so as to prevent flammable material burning on wood laser cutting machine.
Because of major,be at ease so.
Re: deep cutting wood
Using the engraving function, high pressure air and high power I can carve 6mm on our 150W machine when doing signs, masking the surface can help, but you can get rid of a lot of surface charring by putting the wooden piece under running water ( after its cut ) and using a soft brush to loosen any debris/soot
Re: deep cutting wood
From my experience of using Argon gas, that could be another solution for you. But you will need 90% close chamber for better effect.
When I weld or cut, Argon gas shield around the object to prevent from oxidation. I am not so sure with wood work, never tried it before. Just sharing my thought.
When I weld or cut, Argon gas shield around the object to prevent from oxidation. I am not so sure with wood work, never tried it before. Just sharing my thought.
deep cutting wood
Sounds like it might have been successful. BTW I wouldnt normally expect the oil to penetrate to the middle of the wood - just a little bit into the surface.
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Re: deep cutting wood
I've had good luck applying transfer tape before engraving to minimize soot on the surface. I've also lightly block sanded the surface after engraving to clean up the substrate. Of the 2 I prefer the transfer tape. I've also given the project a light coat of rattle can paint before removing the transfer tape to darken the engraving.philr wrote: ↑Sat Oct 01, 2016 5:15 pm I have not seen this question and am hoping that someone might be able to provide an answer.
A client wants me to laser a sign made of wood (California redwood). He has had signs in the past made using a router and has not been pleased. However he does like the "deep" grooves that the routers make.
In the past I have made deep laser cuts using a series of passes. Unfortunately in some cases the surrounding surface wood was scorched.
Am I better off reducing the number of passes by increasing the power and reducing the speed, or am I better off using the normal settings and making more passes? Also, will masking the top of the wood help or hinder the process?